winter time south shore conditions are great then there is a little bit of a bump. north wind days when country is blowing onshore, town becomes straight offshore glass. great to have a 10 foot longboard to putt around on the south shore duing the winter months.
Ok back up and blogging. sorry for the lack of post but this whole time i thought i was having a problem with my server not letting me post pictures on my blog but it was a browser problem.
Well above is a picture of me a few years ago surfing percect Lanis. That day was a perfect swell out of the north at about 4-6ft with very light winds. I’m riding a 6′9″ pintail which I thought felt i bit stiff at the time but now that i think back, i got some really good sessions on that board that winter. I haven’t surfed much country in the past 2 years due to the fact that the crowds have been overwhelming. I have been surfing some mokuleia. Over the past 2 years i have developed a mild case of phisically induced asthma which has limited my surfing of largers waves. This sucks because i used to enjoy larger surf but now my breathing limits me from going out too big. I have a feeling the asthma has come from inhaling too much foam dust over the past 15 years of shaping.
Today was my first country session this season. Surfed in the morning with my wife and a couple of friends. I will try to make an effort to surf more county this year.
Loading up the camper car for the 6 hour journey from Tokyo to Sendai. All boards, bags, snacks and bodies loaded and ready to go. The begining of a great trip…
Notice the one crazy Hawaiian boy with shorts and a tee shirt. It’s about 14 degrees C out! He lasted about 45 mins.
As you can see, Japan gets some goood waves too. Secret spot in Kumamoto. Pic: suzuki keita
Nothing like a cold beer and some BBQ after a great day of surfing.
Then back to Grande Goto Inn for relax time and more beers.
Eat too much of these guys and you’ll be running to the bathroom all night.
